Bagratashen

The village of Bagratashen is located on the Armenian-Georgian border. The Dbet river separates the two countries, with the border crossing just outside the village. Bagratashen was well-known by locals for the bustling foreign market which shut down 2 years ago, and its sunflower industry which still thrives. In summer months, fields of sunflowers decorate roads and pathways which provide for scenic flat-land hiking.

At one of the lowest altitudes in Armenia, Bagratashen is usually remarkably warmer than surrounding towns and villages. The border crossing has a hotel, ATM, cafe, and duty-free shop. Shops in the village have Ritz-like crackers which cannot be found anywhere but in larger cities in Armenia. During certain times of the year, you can buy an entire roasted sunflower head to eat. Traveling towards Vanadzor from Bagratashen, produce from a Kurdish village is sold along the road and you will see reconstruction from a devastating landslide that took place in 2011. In my 2 years of living in Armenia, I have never witnessed more beautiful landscape and rock formations than when travelling towards Vanadzor from Bagratashen.

Though not an obvious destination for travelers, Bagratashen has certain charms and would benefit greatly from increased tourism. A taxi from Bagratashen to Noyemberyan is usually 3,000 dram, a bus or "marshutni" to Vanadzor is 1,000 dram and Yerevan is 2,200 dram. If you are traveling through to Tbilisi- you can usually walk through the customs house, then haggle your way onto a marshutni at a discounted ticket price on the Georgian side. The UNESCO World Heritage Sites Haghpat and Sanahin are also easily reachable by a 30 minute taxi ride towards Alaverdi.





Danelle is an American Peace Corps volunteer who lives and works in Tavush marz.

What is Easter in Armenia?

Easter is tasteful and energetic, colorful, blossoming, because lent is over and spring joy enters everyone’s heart christening for resurrection and new life.  Armenia’s Easter is truly lively. It is a holiday one won’t stay home. Aspire, optimistic, buoyancy and hope gyrate in the air. Churches and streets are full of families, young people, and children. Aroma of incense and voices of praises emerge from the churches where people are endlessly moving in and out and around.

Easter (in Armenian Zatik) is belovedand the most expected holiday in Armenia. Armenia has been Christian country since 301, and since then Easter has been popular and participative public holiday. Everybody in the streets, at home in friendly and family gatherings greets each other and says: “Christ has arisen". The answer is “Blessed is the resurrection of Christ".

Lenten fasting season lasts for 40 days before Easter. Christians, who want to fast, keep themselves away from sins and eat only vegetarian dishes. During fasting Christians attend the church and confess their sins, read Bible, keep themselves away from lasts. Towards the end of lent season a week before Palm Sunday is celebrated, when Jesus triumphantly entered Jerusalem. It’s a wonderfully decorated day: streets and homes are full of palm branches, people are crowned by flowers.

During lent Armenian families also put lentils or other sprouting grains on a tray covered with a thin layer of cotton, and keep it in a light place of the house until Easter when sprouts appear. These green sprouts, symbolizing spring and awakening of nature, are the “grass" on which people place colored eggs to decorate the Easter table.

Next Easter day is a day of joy and triumph against cold and darkness. Spring holiday and resurrection! Armenians have preserved the beautiful biblical lore which refers to red eggs and cheorek (sweet bread): “When Christ was crucified, his mother took some eggs and bread wrapped in the shawl. When the Mother saw her Son crucified and his arms bleeding, she knelt down and cried. The Mother’s tears and Son’s blood dropping on the shawl colored the eggs and bread. Then the Mother put the shawl on her head. Since that day people began coloring eggs red on Easter day and women began wearing shawls when visiting church.

Everywhere in Armenia in Yerevan and in every city Easter is celebrated with traditional events, dishes, songs, greetings. Especially remarkable are revels and merriments in Ejmiadzin, Dilijan, Garni and in many other places. Armenia hotels offer Easter discounts.

The Easter atmosphere will be proliferated upon everyone. Special Easter liturgy will be held in Main Cathedral of Armenia in Ejmiatsin and in all other acting churches.  Garni Pagan Temple also will join the celebrations and provide traditional Easter eggs, as presents.

To Gyumri by Train... (Part 1)

"100 Years of Armenian Railroads"

For those who have a bit of extra time, an aversion to crowded marshutkas, or enjoy the romance of ancient cities and rail travel, a day-long or overnight excursion to Gyumri by train is a fabulous way to see Armenia's second city and escape the heat of a Yerevan summer for the cool mountain air of Shirak Marz.  Trains leave the Sasunsi Davit railway station at 8:00am and 6:10pm every day rain, shine or snowstorm.  You can buy your ticket for 950 dram at the station or on board the train.  The train itself is a Soviet 1955 "elektrichka" model, a piece of living, working history.  If you take the evening train, arrive early so you can have some time to see the Armenian Railways museum, consisting of and located in a 1930's locomotive and railcar housing exhibits on the construction of the Caucasus railway system and a caretaker who will show you his 20, 30, 40 and 50 year service medals for working on the railroad system.

At the controls

As you leave Yerevan, look to your right to see the Erebuni airport, and if you're lucky spot a MiG or Russian transport plane landing or taking off.  Soon you'll pass through Etchmiadzin and be in the valley of the Arax river, where you can watch the stunning panorama of Mt. Ararat pass by out the left window, while Mt. Aragats passes by on the right.  Take the chance to get up and walk around, stick your head out of the window or chew some sunflower seeds.  Unlike a marshutka or taxi ride, you can stretch out and feel comfortable.

No tourists were harmed in the making of this blog.
The Armenia Tourism Blog does not endorse sticking your head
 out of moving train cars.

Soon you'll be in Armavir City, capital of Armavir Marz, home to one of Armenia's biggest wholesale produce markets.  You won't have much time to shop, but unless you're looking to buy a crate of plums or an entire sunflower, you won't be able to.  This is a wholesale market, after all.  Try to buy a single piece of fruit and the vendor will laugh and give it to you as a gift.  Grocers from Gyumri come here to do their shopping, then load crates of produce on the train to take back to their shops.  Help load a crate or two, or merely inquire what's inside, and you can be guaranteed a few snacks to pass the journey.  (See our post "The Fruit" for more about fruit in Armenia and pictures of the Armavir produce market.)

The evening train arrives in a village in Aragatsotn Marz

After Armavir, the train will turn northwards and skirt through the highland plateaus and small villages of Aragatsotn and Shirak Marz.  If you've taken the evening train in the Spring, Summer or Fall, you can watch the sunset over the mountains of Anatolia and spot Yezdi herding encampments along the train track.  Take the opportunity to snap some pictures, join a pickup card game with your fellow passengers or just relax and enjoy the view.  You'll be in Gyumri soon...

Stay tuned for To Gyumri by Train Part 2-Your Day in Gyumri

Sam is an American Peace Corps Volunteer in Armenia.  He lives and works in Aragotsotn Marz, where he teaches English in village schools. The views and opinions expressed are his personally and do not necessarily reflect those of the U.S. Peace Corps.   
A version of this post originally appeared on the Author's blog: www.heyamerikatsi.com 

Read more posts from Sam:
The Fruit
Starting Farmstay B&B in Armenia - Part 1
The Soviet Arcade Games of Giumri
Undiscovered Armavir Marz

PEOPLE, TOURISM AND CULTURE - ARMENIA AT ITS BEST!

Laurent Nadeau, my husband and I Louise Aznavour began our love affair with Armenia about 10 years ago. I was invited to give a series of workshops at the American University of Armenia (AUA). The caliber of the students was remarkable. Enjoyable experiences accumulated over the years as the invitations to offer volunteer professional services to companies and even consulates became part of our ‘excuse’ to go back to Armenia.

Jonathan's relaxation

Since then Armenia has pulled us back multiple times. Each time we stay about 5-6 weeks and play the role of volunteering professionals as well as grateful tourists. Laurent, a successful entrepreneur and a highly seasoned traveller is totally enamoured with this mesmerizing country and especially its people. He freely offered his positive opinion during one of my seminars (visit You Tube - Louise Aznavour Channel )

Relaxation from seminar

At every opportunity, I believe, Laurent will find reasons to organize vacations in Armenia. He loves the people, enjoying extremely good and clean food as well as seeing pretty sites. Most of all we love arts and each night it is possible to find an activity from going to Opera (in an impressive Opera House ) with quality productions or attending a Jazz Concert or strolling in the streets  filled with boutiques and lovely coffee houses. Laurent says to his friends and colleagues: “Take me back to Armenia/Yerevan anytime.” And that rings good to my ears. It is unfortunate that I have kept us away from Armenia for the past while being so busy with the publication of my e-book “Goodbye Stress - Hello Success” 

This part of the world is addictive especially with the intellectual and emotional depth it provides. It is time to go back. Armenia is calling!

 Dr. Louise Aznavour, PhD Psychologist Montreal - Canada www.stayingupbeat.com

A Day in Armenia's Wine Country

A view of the Arpa River from the bridge in Areni

About an hour and a half south of Yerevan on the main road is the village of Areni.  You will know that you are approaching the village when the roadside stalls, usually reserved for fresh fruit, become displays of Coke and Fanta bottles that look suspiciously like they have something besides the advertised product inside.  Most of the bottles are, in fact, empty and only painted to look filled, but that little tidbit of information shouldn’t stop you from pulling over to sample what they are selling: wine and spirits made from local fruits. 

In 2007, archaeologists discovered a winery dating back over 6000 years in what is known as the Areni-1 cave.  It is the oldest winery ever discovered, predating any other by 1000 years.  (Also found in the Areni-1 cave is the world’s oldest leather shoe dating back over 5000 years.)  With so many years of practice behind them, it is easy to understand why Areni is the wine-making capital of Armenia. 

As you approach the village, on the left is a large, grey-stone building with a red roof.  This is the Areni wine factory and it is open to tours.  But most people prefer to sample the homemade products at the numerous stands along the side of the road.  Products on offer include grape, cherry and apricot wines as well as “vodka” (much more similar to grappa) made of the same fruits.  Some of these really pack a punch, so make sure you have a designated driver before you start tasting!

According to some, the reason for the Coke bottles is so that Iranian truck-drivers can bring the wine back with them across the border.  I think the explanation is much simpler: recycling.

Areni is a picturesque village complete with river views and a historic church, Surb Astvatsatsin, the stone carvings and architecture of which are attributed to Momik.  The best time to visit is the fall; there are many harvest festivals in early October and, of course, the Areni wine festival in mid-October.  The foliage is spectacular and the weather is still warm, plus there’s plenty of wine and kebab to sample.

If fall is the best time to visit Areni, winter is the best time to check out the village of Khachik.  Take the winding road through Areni up the mountain and hold your breath.  You will be amazed at the views of Ararat, which seems to hover above the snow and clouds.  When you reach the village, you won’t be able to escape the mountain.  It is simply magical.

One of many breathtaking views on the way up to Khachik.  The village school looks out on an equally impressive panorama.  Imagine trying to concentrate on lessons!

After you’ve spent the day wandering around Areni and Khachik, continue south for a nice khorovats.  There are several choices along the main road including one at the turn-off to Noravank and Lchak restaurant, situated on a pond.  If you feel like travelling a bit farther, there’s a great restaurant at Noravank as well.  But the best in the neighborhood is in Getap.  Continue south on the main road until you reach the turn off to Martuni.  Take that road to the second of two restaurants, Sisakanots, where they have excellent pork and fish khorovats.  In season, you can sit outside at a private table overlooking the Yeghegis River.

Private dining in style at Lchak restaurant

 

Rebecca is an American Peace Corps volunteer who lives and works in Vayots Dzor marz. The views and opinions expressed are hers and do 
not necessarily reflect those of the U.S. Peace Corps. 

Read more posts from Rebecca: 

Ghosts Of The Past In Vayots Dzor

Rediscovering a Lost Community in Vayots dzor

Along The Old Silk Road in Vayots Dzor

Mshkavank

Walking to Mshkavank from Koghb

A short hike from Koghb or Noyemberyan is Mshkavank, a 13th century monastery whose 5th-6th century triple-nave Basilica church was most likely built on top of a Pagan temple. The monastery is known for its 12th c. gavit, or assembly room, which was constructed in the same time period and similar to the gavit at Haghpat (a UNESCO site, about an hour drive to the Lori region). The monastery contains many old stone carvings and khachkars. For anyone interested in Art History, Mshkavank would be an excellent stop in the Tavush region. The layers of styled architecture and decorations from different time periods are obvious even to the untrained eye.

Mshkavank is a popular hiking destination for locals during the warmer seasons, but is hard to reach by vehicle. Often, classrooms go on field trips here to discuss the historical significance of the site, light a candle, or enjoy the forest.

Finding a guide to accompany you to Mshkavank from Noyemberyan in warm weather should not be a problem. There are a couple hotels in Noyemberyan, English speakers at each bank, as well as a group of Peace Corps Volunteers in the area (like me) who are willing to help!

Danelle is an American Peace Corps volunteer who lives and works in Tavush marz.

Along the Old Silk Road in Vayots Dzor

The sign welcoming you to Yeghegnadzor.

(Photo courtesy of Narek Beglaryan)

Heading south on the main road from Yerevan, about 20 minutes past Areni, lies the town of Yeghegnadzor, the provincial capital of Vayots Dzor marz.  On a small hill on the right-hand side of the road, the entrance to the town is marked by a Hollywoodesque sign in Armenian letters cut from local stone.  Right in front of the sign is what looks like a footpath leading seemingly to nowhere.  Blink and you’ll miss it.  And you don’t want to miss it.

The first time I wandered down this road, in the heat of a Vayots Dzor summer, it was on the assurance that the walk down was well worth it.  The path from the main road is quite steep.  You look down with amazement at the tire tracks and marvel that anyone would attempt to drive up it, or even worse, down it.  The road gradually smooths out to a more gentle slope and finally to a meandering and somewhat muddy path along a stream.  It’s the stream that spurs you on; it carries with it the promise of a soothing dip in the Arpa River at a favorite spot for locals looking to beat the heat. 

 

There are many ways to get to the Arpa; most of them don’t involve 45 minute hikes down tricky paths.  But this one is special.  At the end of it is Sur Kamurj, the pointy bridge, as we call it, a medieval structure on the Old Silk Road.

The reason for the sharp point has to do with the arch structure of the bridge, which gives it its strength.  Its design stands as a testament to the genius of the architect, Momik, to whom so many of the monuments in Vayots Dzor are attributed. It has stood the test of time.

Like the name implies, Sur Kamurjis characterized by the sharp point it reaches at the middle.  It is incredible to think of medieval traders carrying their wares along the Silk Road, traversing mountains and all sorts of rough terrain only to come to a bridge which seems as impassable as the ground they had just covered.  And it is easy to imagine that weary road travelers, upon reaching the bridge, might have considered it a perfect place to stop.

 

A group of young people gather by Sur Kamurj as a 

Niva makes the steep trip over the top.
(Photo courtesy of Gevorg Matevosyan)

As you cross the bridge, to the left is a favorite swimming hole.  To the right is a shaded area perfect for camping or having a khorovats (Armenian barbecue). Local legend has it that Marco Polo crossed over the bridge on his way to China (or maybe it was his way back).  Sitting at the side of the river, you can picture him there with his entourage stopping for a respite 800 years ago.  Or perhaps they pushed on to spend the night at the caravanserai farther up the road on the Selim Pass.

If you come to Vayots Dzor in the warm weather, make a stop at these two places. Bring lots of food and plan to share it with local people eager to do the same.  Be prepared to stay for a while; you will need the time to make toasts to your new friends.

Enjoying a picnic by the Arpa River. (Photo courtesy of Pat Fecher)

The caravanserai on a snowy day. Caravanserais provided food and lodging to travelers along the Old Silk Road. It's still a perfect place to camp or share a meal. (Photo courtesy of Sebastian Muellner)

Rebecca is an American Peace Corps volunteer who lives and works in Vayots Dzor marz. The views and opinions expressed are hers and do not necessarily reflect those of the U.S. Peace Corps. 

Read more posts from Rebecca:

Ghosts of the pasts in Vayots Dzor

Rediscovering a Lost Community in Vayots Dzor