A Day in Armenia's Wine Country

A view of the Arpa River from the bridge in Areni

About an hour and a half south of Yerevan on the main road is the village of Areni.  You will know that you are approaching the village when the roadside stalls, usually reserved for fresh fruit, become displays of Coke and Fanta bottles that look suspiciously like they have something besides the advertised product inside.  Most of the bottles are, in fact, empty and only painted to look filled, but that little tidbit of information shouldn’t stop you from pulling over to sample what they are selling: wine and spirits made from local fruits. 

In 2007, archaeologists discovered a winery dating back over 6000 years in what is known as the Areni-1 cave.  It is the oldest winery ever discovered, predating any other by 1000 years.  (Also found in the Areni-1 cave is the world’s oldest leather shoe dating back over 5000 years.)  With so many years of practice behind them, it is easy to understand why Areni is the wine-making capital of Armenia. 

As you approach the village, on the left is a large, grey-stone building with a red roof.  This is the Areni wine factory and it is open to tours.  But most people prefer to sample the homemade products at the numerous stands along the side of the road.  Products on offer include grape, cherry and apricot wines as well as “vodka” (much more similar to grappa) made of the same fruits.  Some of these really pack a punch, so make sure you have a designated driver before you start tasting!

According to some, the reason for the Coke bottles is so that Iranian truck-drivers can bring the wine back with them across the border.  I think the explanation is much simpler: recycling.

Areni is a picturesque village complete with river views and a historic church, Surb Astvatsatsin, the stone carvings and architecture of which are attributed to Momik.  The best time to visit is the fall; there are many harvest festivals in early October and, of course, the Areni wine festival in mid-October.  The foliage is spectacular and the weather is still warm, plus there’s plenty of wine and kebab to sample.

If fall is the best time to visit Areni, winter is the best time to check out the village of Khachik.  Take the winding road through Areni up the mountain and hold your breath.  You will be amazed at the views of Ararat, which seems to hover above the snow and clouds.  When you reach the village, you won’t be able to escape the mountain.  It is simply magical.

One of many breathtaking views on the way up to Khachik.  The village school looks out on an equally impressive panorama.  Imagine trying to concentrate on lessons!

After you’ve spent the day wandering around Areni and Khachik, continue south for a nice khorovats.  There are several choices along the main road including one at the turn-off to Noravank and Lchak restaurant, situated on a pond.  If you feel like travelling a bit farther, there’s a great restaurant at Noravank as well.  But the best in the neighborhood is in Getap.  Continue south on the main road until you reach the turn off to Martuni.  Take that road to the second of two restaurants, Sisakanots, where they have excellent pork and fish khorovats.  In season, you can sit outside at a private table overlooking the Yeghegis River.

Private dining in style at Lchak restaurant

 

Rebecca is an American Peace Corps volunteer who lives and works in Vayots Dzor marz. The views and opinions expressed are hers and do 
not necessarily reflect those of the U.S. Peace Corps. 

Read more posts from Rebecca: 

Ghosts Of The Past In Vayots Dzor

Rediscovering a Lost Community in Vayots dzor

Along The Old Silk Road in Vayots Dzor

Along the Old Silk Road in Vayots Dzor

The sign welcoming you to Yeghegnadzor.

(Photo courtesy of Narek Beglaryan)

Heading south on the main road from Yerevan, about 20 minutes past Areni, lies the town of Yeghegnadzor, the provincial capital of Vayots Dzor marz.  On a small hill on the right-hand side of the road, the entrance to the town is marked by a Hollywoodesque sign in Armenian letters cut from local stone.  Right in front of the sign is what looks like a footpath leading seemingly to nowhere.  Blink and you’ll miss it.  And you don’t want to miss it.

The first time I wandered down this road, in the heat of a Vayots Dzor summer, it was on the assurance that the walk down was well worth it.  The path from the main road is quite steep.  You look down with amazement at the tire tracks and marvel that anyone would attempt to drive up it, or even worse, down it.  The road gradually smooths out to a more gentle slope and finally to a meandering and somewhat muddy path along a stream.  It’s the stream that spurs you on; it carries with it the promise of a soothing dip in the Arpa River at a favorite spot for locals looking to beat the heat. 

 

There are many ways to get to the Arpa; most of them don’t involve 45 minute hikes down tricky paths.  But this one is special.  At the end of it is Sur Kamurj, the pointy bridge, as we call it, a medieval structure on the Old Silk Road.

The reason for the sharp point has to do with the arch structure of the bridge, which gives it its strength.  Its design stands as a testament to the genius of the architect, Momik, to whom so many of the monuments in Vayots Dzor are attributed. It has stood the test of time.

Like the name implies, Sur Kamurjis characterized by the sharp point it reaches at the middle.  It is incredible to think of medieval traders carrying their wares along the Silk Road, traversing mountains and all sorts of rough terrain only to come to a bridge which seems as impassable as the ground they had just covered.  And it is easy to imagine that weary road travelers, upon reaching the bridge, might have considered it a perfect place to stop.

 

A group of young people gather by Sur Kamurj as a 

Niva makes the steep trip over the top.
(Photo courtesy of Gevorg Matevosyan)

As you cross the bridge, to the left is a favorite swimming hole.  To the right is a shaded area perfect for camping or having a khorovats (Armenian barbecue). Local legend has it that Marco Polo crossed over the bridge on his way to China (or maybe it was his way back).  Sitting at the side of the river, you can picture him there with his entourage stopping for a respite 800 years ago.  Or perhaps they pushed on to spend the night at the caravanserai farther up the road on the Selim Pass.

If you come to Vayots Dzor in the warm weather, make a stop at these two places. Bring lots of food and plan to share it with local people eager to do the same.  Be prepared to stay for a while; you will need the time to make toasts to your new friends.

Enjoying a picnic by the Arpa River. (Photo courtesy of Pat Fecher)

The caravanserai on a snowy day. Caravanserais provided food and lodging to travelers along the Old Silk Road. It's still a perfect place to camp or share a meal. (Photo courtesy of Sebastian Muellner)

Rebecca is an American Peace Corps volunteer who lives and works in Vayots Dzor marz. The views and opinions expressed are hers and do not necessarily reflect those of the U.S. Peace Corps. 

Read more posts from Rebecca:

Ghosts of the pasts in Vayots Dzor

Rediscovering a Lost Community in Vayots Dzor